All posts tagged KST Thru Hike

Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike: Part 4 (Chapters 4 and 5 – Days 6, 7 and 8)

by Coty on April 12, 2012 in Hikes with 2 Comments

This is Part 4 of Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike Personal Recap, posted with his permission. Please be sure to read the warning at the bottom of this post before attempting such a hike. This 8 day journey is the result of years of preparation. Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3 can be found here.

Day 6 (03/30/12)

N. Haiku-Wilson Tunnel Building
6.5 hrs
5 miles

Total Pack Weight: 24.6125 lb.

This begins the saddles. There were a couple of eroded sections in the beginning. Three I think. Then the eroded dike. The ridge isn’t too narrow here but you always slip at the second section. Take your time and tie off if needed. Reach the eroded dike(contour leeward) Gain ridge and reach trail junction. Descend 30 minutes to collect water. Refill all containers. Regain trail and immediately it turns back to serious mode. Three problems face you. Remember contour left when you don’t think to and contour right to use the root to climb. Remember to not go too far right and never to climb without veg unless on root. Use two ropes (1 in each hand) to get past the third problem. Soon you will see the pre-Stairs stairs. Climb up to the radar structure. Time depending, go inside for a snack and short break. You have about 1 1/2 hr along the summit ridge until the camp spot. Continue along the summit towards bowman. Reach Bowman terminus and snack. You will not have many more chances until the power lines. Reach eroded dike and drop leeward to contour. Reach 2nd Triangle and descend using rope slightly leeward. Similar with the next triangle. Lower yourself past the witch’s hat and then windward contour when needed. Reach power lines. Descend power line trail to camp spot at power line pole.

  • S. Haiku-Halawa 45min
  • Halawa-Godek 30min
  • Godek – 1st Saddle 15min
  • 1st Saddle – Southern Haiku stair terminus 3hr 30-4hr
  • S.Haiku – Bowman Terminus 2hr-2hr 30min
  • Bowman Terminus – Power Line trail 2hr 30 min

Camp near pole

Bail Halawa, Godek, State trail, Haiku Stairs, Tripler, Middle, Bowman… tempting?;-)

On this day last attempt I had fallen off the saddle and cracked my head causing an abrupt end to my plans. This was in my head all day and hard to shake.

Is it morning yet!!?!? After the worst night of sleep on this trip, at the first sign of dawn I jumped out of my cocoon and checked to make sure everything was still in good enough condition before packing it all up. This was the first morning I’ve woken in socked in conditions and slight rain so I was a little happy with myself being in the shack. I decided to wait and see if the clouds would clear so pulled out my cooking system and made some hot coffee and toasted my flatten bagel with Nutella.

Day 6 face.

After about 45 minutes the clouds lifted and the saddle began to show itself in full profile. Taking this as a sign, I grabbed my belongings and began walking along the extremely rusty stairs. Every time I am here I cannot get over the obvious impact exposure to the elements has on metal. If the stairs have a bush blocking it, then they have an almost brand new look but a few inches past the bush the metal resembles a creepy rusty dagger ready to impale you.

Passed Halawa and Red hill fairly quickly and was moving with the same sort of speed that had carried me through the previous days. There looks to be good camping at Halawa right before the summit for one small shelter setup. Might consider that if ever near this section and don’t want to sleep in the shack nor descend the saddle.

Began the descent down to the state trail at the middle of the saddle around 9:15 am. Personally, I enjoy this descent compared to other saddle descents. There are two or three eroded areas but the words of my mother the night before to “take it slow and I would get through it safely” rang through my head often during the following days. It is only at one section where I have to lower myself down an eroded spot and a tree is there for hand holds but no matter what I do I always end up having to let go of the tree and fall a foot or so which causes me to slide down the crap rock and catch myself in the vegetation. Always. Every trip. I considered using my guy line cord to lower myself but knew I would need it for other parts on the Kalihi saddle. So sliding I went and everything went smoothly. Reached the eroded dike and dropped down then contour leeward to get past it. After the dike it is basically smooth sailing to the flat area that marks the trail terminus. Reached it at 10 am and dropped my gear and put my front pack around my waist to descend down to the stream to collect water. Man, going from summit conditions to state trail is a little overwhelming at first and I proceeded to run down the trail. Reached the stream within 10 minutes and smacked my forehead as I saw all the beautiful camping spots that lay around the stream. Next time, next time! I was tempted to take a quick bath but just threw some water on my face, filled up all my water containers and proceeded to run back up the trail ready to get past the obstacle that put me out last trip.

Building.

I reached the trail terminus at 10:30 am and got ready to tackle the three challenges of the Moanalua saddle to Haiku. Weather was perfect for this attempt and just told myself take it slow and I knew how to do this. First challenge is just rock climbing with a windward contour and was handled with ease. The second challenge, my previous downfall, is to leeward contour but only slightly. Too far and one will begin to ascend with very little vegetation and will likely slip at some point. With this in mind I slight contoured and began to climb the obvious vegetation. This area really could do with a rope if people are actually doing this section as often as seems to be indicated. Had to climb using trees and vegetation until the root needed to gain the ridge appeared and then shifted right until I could reach it. No problems this time and was sitting upon the ridge with smiles on my face.

Honestly, throughout this entire trip, that was the most fear I will encounter because of the mental block caused by my old mistake. There is a little voice inside my head that knows when something does not feel right and in November I ignored that voice with the thought that “If I can just reach that spot right ther…..e”. This trip I strongly feel was successful because probably 6-7 times that voice began yelling at me and this time I listened, stopped and reattempted the problem from a different angle. It sounds like common sense but sometimes when all you need to do is get to a spot 2 feet away, it can be easy to quiet that voice and think it is just 2 feet away!!! One of many hard lessons I’ve had to come to learn on the trail.

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Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike: Part 3 (Chapter 4 – Day 3, 4 and 5)

by Coty on April 12, 2012 in Hikes with 3 Comments

This is Part 3 of Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike Personal Recap, posted with his permission. Please be sure to read the warning at the bottom of this post before attempting such a hike. This 8 day journey is the result of years of preparation. Part 1 and Part 2 can be found here.

Day 3 (03/27/12)

Poamoho-Kipapa Sugi Pines
5 miles
5 hr

Total Pack Weight: 30.6125 lb.

Enjoy today! This is one of the quicker days so I would suggest the trip’s only warm breakfast. Enjoy yourself and make sure you refill all water containers. Leave by 9 a.m. after cleaning up, signing the log, and boarding the place up. I did not find any water after the cabin to Kipapa. If you find it, take it. You will arrive at the Pauao terminus within 30 minutes of leaving the cabin. Enjoy the beauty around you! This is the most enjoyable section of the KST. Around you is Kahana Valley. The S/W junction comes too soon as you know a long leeward stretch is coming up from Waikane to Waiahole Uka. Don’t forget to look for the pink ribbon rusty pole on the right. If you ever look up and see a contour, turn around and find the junction. Remember the set up on the side ridge to the right. Reach sugi pines and decide if want to continue 20 minutes up the landslide to reach true Kipapa terminus. Ascend landslide and look below you on the right for the contour. Supposedly, one can turn down Kipapa trail and campsite ~45min down near a possible waterfall. I tried this and found the overgrowth on Kipapa to be too much of a deterrent. I see this as a waste of 1hr 30min. Remember last camp spot sucked but the new one is amazing – it is located about 5 minutes before the summit right off the trail on the right.

To Pauao.

Ridge.

  • Poamoho-S/W 2hr 1/2min-3hr
  • S/W-Waikane junction 30min
  • Waikane – Ka’aumakua 30min
  • Kaaumakua-Waiahole Uka 2hr 15min-3 hr
  • Waiahole Uka-Sugi Pines 15min
  • Sugi Pines to Kipapa Trail Terminus 20min

Camp near wind protected Sugi Pines, at old cabin structure or off Kipapa trail.

Bail S/W, Waikane, Waiahole Uka

Woke up early today around 6 am to the sound of rain tapping away on the roof of the cabin. I rolled off the top bunk with an enthusiasm for the start of a great day. This day is hands down my favorite section of the entire trip with the long stretches of windward contouring. On one side is a tall carved out wall in the mountain and on the other is the vast expanse of the hiker playground known as Kahana valley. I was eager to get on the trail but knew that I did not want to arrive at Kipapa too early. So a warm breakfast and cup of coffee were enjoyed watching the rising sun. A very soothing morning as the rain began to settle down, the birds came out chirping and the sun began to show itself above the horizon. This place is and hopefully will always be a place I enjoy to come and find the peace and calm lacking in other areas of my life. It is amazing to live in a cabin with no electricity and disconnected from society as every problem fades and activities are planned around the rising and setting of the sun. I question if we really are progressing as society and the praises of certain innovations. With my soul in check, I packed and cleaned up, signed the log and said my good byes as I hit the trail by 8:30am.

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Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike: Part 2 (Chapter 4 – Day 1 and 2)

by Coty on April 12, 2012 in Hikes with 3 Comments

This is Part 2 of Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike Personal Recap, posted with his permission. Please be sure to read the warning at the bottom of this post before attempting such a hike. This 8 day journey is the result of years of preparation. Part 1 can be found here. 

Day 1 (03/25/12)

Pupukea-Kawaiiloa
8 miles
7.5 hr

Total Pack Weight: 34.6125lb

It took me 7hrs from 9am-4pm the first time, 8 1/2 hrs the second time, and 7 the third time. Water is located at the falls windward of the camping area, but needs to be filtered because of the crap it is flows through (rusty metal and such). Be prepared for mud up to your knees when going down to the water hole. When it is raining, various small flows could allow collection of water instead of descending to the water hole. The cabin is still there, just try to get there before nightfall for the sunset. Remember the camp at Laie if ever needed.

  • Pupukea-Malaekahana 5-6hr
  • Malaekahana-Laie 30-1 hr
  • Laie-Kawailoa 30min-1hr

Camp at the leeward Kawailoa campground or in cabin.

Bail Malakahana, Laie.

I woke up around five in the morning too excited to sleep any longer and began working on the last couple of preparations. Took my last shower, ate my last big breakfast and drank my last latte for the next 8 days. As seems to happen with big events, my ride to the trailhead had troubles and thankfully Rasta was able to drive. He would park at the Laie ball field parking lot for his descent later in the day. I called a taxi to take us to the trailhead.

Koolau Summit Trail sign.

Everything went smoothly and we arrived at the trailhead around 9:00am ready to begin my second attempt at backpacking the entire summit of the Koolau mountains. The road walking went by quickly as Rasta and I caught up on each other’s lives and discussed plans for that day. Last time, we moved fairly slowly as Rasta did some much needed bushwhacking ahead of me. It had put me in Kawailoa around 5:30pm and him descending Laie trail well into the dark. We decided no bushwhacking this time and to make a point of moving fast. We hit the summit trail sign around 11am where pictures were had and pushed off for the club turnaround. After the turnaround the real hiking begins as the trail becomes significantly more overgrown.

Around this section an amazing feeling begins flooding my body when I mentally accept I will be backpacking in solitude for 8-9 days. It was a huge release of every worry and trouble back in my other non-hiking life and something that will keep me coming back.

I was really happy to see us reach the Malaekahana shortcut sign around 2:30 pm because I knew that Laie was only 2 hours away. I really wanted to make it to Kawailoa before sunset. It is just breathtaking up there. We put the hike speed into high gear and got to Laie around 4:15 pm with enough time to relax up in the foxhole and do some last minute chatting. Around 4:40 pm, Rasta wisely decided he needed to start descending and we said our farewells, “See you at Makapuu!” I yelled to him as he disappeared down the trail.

Chase Norton, Sunflower tattoo intact.

I am very grateful to him for driving and for his company while hiking. It is an amazing boost of morale and energy having a friend on trail to start this journey and I thank him for it. Watching him depart signified the true beginning of my trip as now I sat alone with nothing but the summit. I descended the foxhole and crossed over to Kawailoa in 20 minutes reaching the helipad and cabin by 5pm.

It really is an indescribable place when alone. Dropped all my gear in the cabin, put on my warmer clothes and grabbed my Kindle. The next 2 hours were spent sitting on the helipad overlooking the rolling ridges and convoluted terrain of the northern Koolau mountains and settling it for some reading while the sun moved slowly – then quickly – to set behind the Waianae mountains. Absolute peace.

KST

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Chase Norton’s Koolau Summit 8 Day Thru Hike: Part 1 (Chapters 1-3)

by Coty on April 11, 2012 in Hikes with 4 Comments

On April 1, Georgia born Chase Norton completed an amazing feat of fortitude, strength, and bravery. Norton became the first person to hike the entire length of the Koolau Mountain Range on a single try. His journey began on March 25 as he embarked from Pupukea and ended on, of most days, April 1 when he descended the Makapuu end of the Koolau mountains. It often takes people months, years, or even decades to complete what Norton did. Impressively, he was able to do it in seven days with minimal gear.

The announcement of Norton’s accomplishment was first announced by Nate Yuen on the popular Facebook group, Oahu Weekend Hikers. Immediately, the Hawaii hiking community cheered on Norton’s efforts. Jay Feldman, president of the Hawaii Trail & Mountain Club, exclaimed “Congratulations!! That’s an amazing and intrepid feat.” Jeremy Kreis, someone who has also completed the KST (in segments), was simply amazed by how lightly Norton packed for his 8 day trip, “Wow, you packed light.”

In 1979, Hawaii hiking pioneer Silver Piliwale attempted the same trail. The then 78 year old Piliwale stopped short of completing the entire KST when he exited Moanalua Valley on the 5th day of his trek. Thirty-three years later, Norton was able to complete what the agile Piliwale could not. Norton was nice enough to allow me to share his experience in his own words.

Below is Part 1 (Chapters 1-3) of Chase Norton’s personal report posted with his permission.

Chapter 1: The Motivation

It all began in 2009 while in a pub with a discussion I was having with a good friend and hiking buddy, Chappy. I wanted to do more backpacking around Oahu, both for the experience and to make use of all the new gear I had recently purchased from REI. After a couple of beers the talked turned to an argument about hiking the entire Koolau summit in a single trip. I was ignorant, reckless and far too confident in my hiking abilities but was adamant it could be done. Of course, this was before I had ever hiked on Oahu. He rightfully laughed at my desires and let me know that even in sections it could not be completed let alone in a full backpacking trip.

Chase getting ready to hike.

This was the time the seed was planted especially for the section hiking of the Koolau summit. As I was doing some of those northern portions or the saddles the motivation transitioned from proving a friend wrong to my own desire to find and push my limits. From that day forward both consciously and unconsciously I began making the necessary changes in myself to prepare and execute a thru hike of the Koolau summit. I hiked more and started to learn and understand the mountains on Oahu. Through these hikes I would meet other hikers who seemed to share the same opinions as Chappy, which simply furthered my desire to take on the impossible. We all want to make our mark in this world.

From that initial argument, I started with the southern portions from Makapuu to Konahuanui. Actually, it took over a year to hike those sections. Some sections I would repeat until I knew them very well. Still, I am not sure why it took so long and now that I’ve done it all in one day, it is even more comical. Regardless, it took me a year to section hike it.

After the southern portion, I turned my focus to the saddles. These were the sections most people argued were undoable. For a long time I was working on the Pali Notches but continually failed in my attempts. I went up many times, perhaps six or seven attempts, but always got stuck at the nub and/or chimney. Then I got distracted by the Piliwale ridge and making route on that ridge. Honestly, after some time I had begun to just let the whole dream go. I guess this is where the drive to prove a friend wrong started to diminish and I started to consider the entire section hike undoable. It wasn’t until I was camping at a bluegrass festival in the Botanical Gardens in Kaneohe that I started to look at the saddles in profile and the gears started turning in my head.

One fateful day, I called up a good friend, Matthew, to see if he would join me up Lanihuli and descend down the Kalihi saddle. If that didn’t look good then we could descend down to the Pali. I don’t think he knew what he was getting himself into, but he agreed. The following Sunday we headed up and after some time scouting we agreed to attempt bottom up approach from the Pali as soon as we could get the time.

The following weekend Matt and I decided to first attempt the Notches on Saturday. After all those months of failure, we were able to complete and get past all the obstacles I had previously failed to conquer. Having someone else there to discuss a problem with, share in the fear and the reward, can sometimes change what might seem impossible. The next day Matt had contacted a friend, Duc, and his hiking friends Rasta and Laredo…people who I have now come to both call friends and highly respect. We asked them to join us for a Pali to Lanihuli attempt. Long story short, we made it up and I got to see what hiking with a solid team was really like much different than most of my solo missions.

With the Pali saddle completed in one weekend, the passion of a full section hike was reignited, but now had become a personal obsession void of any outside influences. I still did not know what the northern sections were like or the two other saddles, but soon I would find out.

Early on in his KST hike.

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